Sabtu, 31 Mei 2014

[B874.Ebook] Free Ebook Residential Energy: Cost Savings and Comfort for Existing Buildings (6th Edition), by John Krigger

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Residential Energy: Cost Savings and Comfort for Existing Buildings (6th Edition), by John Krigger

The Sixth Edition of Residential Energy has been updated the content to reflect the evolving best practices for the diagnosis, retrofit, maintenance, and energy management of residential buildings. Written with a "simple measures are the most effective" approach, have strived to improve this edition as readers strive to understand and improve the buildings with which they work.

  • Sales Rank: #305647 in Books
  • Published on: 2013-05-12
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 10.90" h x .80" w x 8.50" l, 1.96 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 320 pages

Most helpful customer reviews

21 of 22 people found the following review helpful.
This IS the Book on Home Energy Efficiency
By A. P. Duncan
In the home performance world this is called "the Krigger book." It is THE book to get for professionals, and it is often handed out in conjunction with BPI and HERS trainings. I refer to this book more than any other in our company's library. The 23 appendices are alone worth the price of the book.
Of all the books on home energy efficiency, this book does the best job of explaining building science in the sense of how residential buildings perform as energy systems. Anybody who thinks making a house more efficient is just a matter of slapping up some insulation up and handing out a few energy-saving light bulbs will have their eyes opened after reading this book. It has lots of useful drawings in addition to the clearly written text.
Important stuff in this book that are not in the "mental maps" of most homeowners and many contractors include: energy intensity indices (such as BTU/sq.ft./HDD-CDD), calculating heating loads, types of heat flow, defining the thermal boundary and air boundary, air leakage theory and testing (blower door usage), calculating natural air exchanges per hour (ACHn) from a blower door reading (CFM50), heating unit and distribution system efficiencies, non A/C cooling strategies, lighitng loads, light quality and efficient lighting, increasing water-use efficiencies, mechanical ventilation ("seal tight and ventilate right"), indoor moisture load-issues-management, combustion safety and indoor air quality, etc. As you can see, this may be a little too indepth for a homeowner. But anyone working in insulation and home energy performance should be familiar with these building science concepts. Get the book, get the right tools, and get good training!
With all the emphasis on and new funding for energy efficiency in 2009 and beyond, this is a book that should be on reference shelves for a lot of businesses and organizations. I had an extra copy from a training and I donated it to our local public library. I see that Krigger and Dorsi also have a more concise book for homeowners -- probably just as good.

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
A comprehensive introduction to residential energy use
By Edward Nold
"Residential Energy" is the best introductory book I have found on the sources, end uses, efficiency, conservation and analysis of residential energy. It is a comprehensive resource that provides an in-depth understanding of how the physics of energy influences the house as a system.

Because the book is targeted at consumers, students and tradespeople, it provides thorough coverage of theory, practical applications and construction details; in accurate yet easy to understand language, without assuming the reader has extensive knowledge of the subject. The book includes 315 pages, 350 drawings, 60 charts and tables, an extensive glossary, 23 appendices and a thorough index.

It is an appropriate workbook to accompany a high school, trades school or college course focusing on residential energy and would be especially relevant as a training manual for prospective residential energy auditors. Landlords, homeowners, renters, building inspectors, architects, engineers, carpenters, insulation contractors, HVAC technicians, plumbers and electricians all have something significant to gain by reading this manual.

If a person understands the principles, theories and tools described in this book, they have a very thorough general knowledge of single and multi-family residential energy sources, end uses, efficiency, conservation and analysis.

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Great Book To Get Into The Home Energy Tech Field
By Thomas Alan Arms
Nicely done book for beginning residential energy auditor at the coomunity college level. Updated with lots of additional info in the back. With the cost of energy becoming a current issue, this book covers it all. So, if you want to enter this emerging field, this book would be a helpful start.

See all 43 customer reviews...

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Rabu, 28 Mei 2014

[D896.Ebook] PDF Download Forager's Cocktails: Botanical Mixology with Fresh, Natural Ingredients, by Amy Zavatto

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Forager's Cocktails: Botanical Mixology with Fresh, Natural Ingredients, by Amy Zavatto

From farmers’ markets to speakeasies, delectable drinks made from foraged and grown ingredients are the latest trend to hit mixology. Full of mouth-watering color photos, this handy guide to imbibing the great outdoors offers 40 inspiring recipes, divided into seasons, as well as tips on how best to forage and preserve the freshest and tastiest berries, herbs, flowers, and more. Forager’s Cocktails is a luscious toolkit for getting the most from backyards, parks, and woodlands and crafting tasty, one-of-a-kind cocktails. Raise your glass to making the most of nature’s bounty!

  • Sales Rank: #151752 in Books
  • Published on: 2015-11-17
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 7.30" h x .70" w x 5.30" l, .0 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 144 pages

About the Author
Amy Zavatto writes about cocktails, spirits, wine, and food for Imbibe, Whisky Advocate, Shape, Serious Eats, Hamptons, Edible Manhattan, and other publications. She earned her Level III certification in wine and spirits from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, and she is the author of The Architecture of the Cocktail (Race Point), The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Bartending (Alpha), A Hedonist’s Guide to Eat New York (HG2), and coauthor of The Renaissance Guide to Wine & Food Pairing (Alpha). She lives, eats, and drinks in New York City, and her favorite cocktail is a Manhattan.

Most helpful customer reviews

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Fun drinks, but could have incorporated more "foraging."
By Kyle William
I bought this as a holiday gift for a craft cocktail loving friend.

Why you'll love it:

The book is very straightforward. It offers a variety of recipes that include many different types of foraged ingredients. These include basil, rose, different types of berries, beets, and various herbs. The book itself doesn't get too crafty, gearing the cocktails to a wide audience that isn't limited to cocktail aficionados.

Drinks like the "Gingko Alexander" that includes roasted gingko nuts will surely create conversation at your next cocktail party. The Author, Amy Zavatto, includes narration throughout and shares stories about personal experiences with much of the foraged components. In addition to the gingko drink, a pickled carrot bloody marry and sassafras sidecar look enjoyable.

Why you won't love it:

The book is rather small and akin to a pocket guide. I was hoping for something a little bigger, especially after working through Death & Co. last year. That being said, Forager's Cocktails could have been so much more. Amy Zavatto had much opportunity to go into depth regarding her choices for the ingredients and unfortunately comes up short. Instead of exploring the flavor profiles of the foraged, the author relies on rather boring personal stories regarding her experiences with each ingredient.

Instead of pairing specific types of spirits, the recipes call for generic "vodka" or "gin." As someone who has only recently begun exploring cocktails, I know that spirit choice can define a cocktail. I wish that the author had placed a little more effort in building her recipes.

Conclusion:
A solid effort, but could have been more. The recipes look good and will provide some fun things to work through, yet I only wish there was more of the "foraged" component in the text.

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Great For Both Town and Country
By Raymond Dowd
Amy Zavatto has written a great book for those who love the outdoors and those who love a good cocktail. Looking for new flavors in botanicals is an exciting, creative pursuit and this book will provide inspiration and fun for those who like to experiment. If you are looking to liven up your cocktail menu, you will find both ideas and instruction. Don't think that you need to be in the wilderness to forage, the book works for city dwellers and is the perfect gift for the family gardener.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Nice way to change up your normal cocktail game.
By Silas M. Miller
Great for ideas for the foraging cocktail lover. I particularly like the variety of syrup ideas which opened my eyes beyond my normal ginger/sumac syrup. Adding herbs to each syrup is a fantastic way to add complexity. I personally find books like this to be inspirational rather than something to follow to a T, but I'm sure if you follow them they would end up great as well.

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Minggu, 18 Mei 2014

[H120.Ebook] Ebook Download Percorsi: L'Italia attraverso la lingua e la cultura (2nd Edition), by Francesca Italiano, Irene Marchegiani

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Percorsi: L'Italia attraverso la lingua e la cultura (2nd Edition), by Francesca Italiano, Irene Marchegiani

The first edition of Percorsi quickly became one of the best-selling elementary Italian texts.  The new second edition features a new design, more focus on skills-development, updated cultural information 

 

Percorsi is an introductory program that promotes the acquisition of Italian language and culture through the integration of the “5 Cs” principles of the National Standards for Foreign Language Education. Percorsi  is designed to provide beginning learners with a variety of tools to develop their communicative competence in the four major language skills—listening, speaking, reading, and writing—as they acquire familiarity with Italian culture. All of the features in Percorsi  have been carefully thought out to support the two key aspects of the language acquisition process: language comprehension and language production.

 

From the start, carefully structured communicative activities based on authentic materials and texts encourage students to use Italian in everyday situations. Generous use of authentic content also offers students a chance to develop reading skills while gaining cultural awareness and understanding of Italian communities and traditions throughout the world. In addition, each chapter explicitly promotes cultural exploration through illustrated presentations that are followed by activities facilitating comprehension and highlighting cultural comparisons. Students are encouraged to analyze and compare extremely varied aspects of Italian culture while making connections to their own experiences.

 

Note: this is the standalone book, if you want the Book/Access Code order the ISBN below:

 

0205189393 / 9780205189397 Percorsi: L'Italia attraverso la lingua e la cultura with MyItalianLab and Pearson eText *

Package consists of:   

0205032915 / 9780205032914 MyItalianLab with Pearson eText -- Access Card -- for Percorsi: L'Italia attraverso la lingua e la cultura (24-month access)

0205784720 / 9780205784721 Percorsi: L'Italia attraverso la lingua e la cultura

 

  • Sales Rank: #410663 in Books
  • Published on: 2011-01-07
  • Original language: Italian
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 10.90" h x 1.10" w x 8.50" l, 2.86 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 576 pages
Features
  • Hardback

About the Author

Francesca Italiano is the Director of the Italian Language Program at the University of Southern California.  She has a Ph.D. from University of California, Los Angeles in Nineteenth Century Italian Literature and an M.S. from USC in Applied Linguistics. She is the coauthor of the literary reader Incontri Attuali and the author of the second edition of the intermediate Italian textbook, Crescendo!  She is currently working with the USC Language Center in the development of the VIE (Virtual Italian Experience) video game, which is based on Percorsi. The VIE project is being funded by a two-year NEH grant.  

 

Irene Marchegiani, Professor Emerita of Italian Language and Literature at California State University – Long Beach, is currently Coordinator of Student Teaching for European Languages at the State University of New York – Stony Brook, where she teaches second language acquisition methodology courses as well as courses in European Studies.  At CSULB, from 1985 to 1999 she was the Director of the Italian program. Professor Marchegiani has taught Italian language, literature, and culture at all levels.  She has written articles on Giacomo Leopardi and on contemporary Italian poetry, with a particular emphasis on women writers.  She edited the volume of poetry Land of Time (Chelsea Edition, 2006) by Luigi Fontanella and co-edited The Poetics of Place: Florence imagined (Olschki, 2001).  She has conducted research and published articles on Italian epic poems about Cristopher Columbus and on second language acquisition. In collaboration with Professor Charles Jernigan, she has translated Torquato Tasso’s Aminta (Italica Press, 2000), which was awarded the prestigious “Diego Valeri” Monselice prize in 2002. She has co-translated other volumes of poetry including The Star of Free Will by Maria Luisa Spaziani. Professor Marchegiani has published several of her poems in various poetry journals, in Italy and in the U.S.A., and in 2004 she published La vita in cerchio, her first collection of poetry. She is member of the editorial board of the literary journals Gradiva and Journal of Italian Translation. With Francesca Italiano, she published the literary reader Incontri Attuali and the intermediate Italian textbook Crescendo.

 

 

Most helpful customer reviews

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Bene
By Lewis Cawthorne
Not bad for an Italian textbook. I don't have much standard for comparison. Read assigned sections an made an A in the class. It is written quite clearly. However, I feel that it switches to givingi nstructions o exercises in Italian too early.

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Awesome book
By Paola Barrios
THIS BOOK IS GREAT FOR BEGINNERS LIKE MYSELF. I BOUGHT IT FOR CLASS AND IT HAS DEVELOPED MY LANGUAGE SKILLS IN ITALIAN. IT HAS GIVEN ME KNOWLEDGE IN THE CULTURE AND THE FOODS OF ITALY. LOVE IT

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A Terrible Textbook
By John P.
I have been using this book for over a year. It is absolutely terrible. The approach is is to teach by omission with incomplete examples and explanations, leading to confusion on the part of the student. For instance, one rule in Italian is that you attach reflexive, direct object and indirect object pronouns to the end of the infinitive form of a verb. One does not get an inkling that this is a general rule until the special cases of prima di + infinitive and dopo + past infinitive are introduced in Chapter 11 ! The rule is mentioned for direct object pronouns in Ch 9, but not mentioned at all for indirect object pronouns in the same chapter. There are a multitude of other examples of poor and incomplete explanations.
The exercises in the accompanying software are riddled with mistakes and inconsistencies. And, you can enter a perfectly correct answer in an exercise and it will be wrong .... you get a zero .... if it is not the answer the software expects. Even for instances where the book explicitly tells you that there are two correct ways to implement a certain grammatical construction.

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Kamis, 15 Mei 2014

[O845.Ebook] Get Free Ebook Binge, by Tyler Oakley

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Binge, by Tyler Oakley

Pop-culture phenomenon, social rights advocate, and the most prominent LGBTQ+ voice on YouTube, Tyler Oakley brings you his first collection of witty, personal, and hilarious essays.

For someone who made a career out of over-sharing on the Internet, Tyler has a shocking number of personal mishaps and shenanigans to reveal in his first book: experiencing a legitimate rage blackout in a Cheesecake Factory; negotiating a tense stand­off with a White House official; crashing a car in front of his entire high school, in an Arby’s uniform; projectile vomiting while bartering with a grandmother; and so much more. In Binge, Tyler delivers his best untold, hilariously side-splitting moments with the trademark flair that made him a star.

  • Sales Rank: #11022 in Books
  • Published on: 2015-10-20
  • Released on: 2015-10-20
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 8.37" h x 1.10" w x 5.50" l, 1.52 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 320 pages

Review
"Hilarious, shocking, and devastating, Tyler delivers a coming-of-age memoir for the digital generation." (Vanity Fair)

"Oakley has managed to produce a quick read of tales to make you laugh, cry, ponder and cringe...a worthy debut and one that will captivate and comfort existing fans of the Internet celebrity, while helping him gain new ones." (New York Daily News)

"With a confident voice and clear message, Oakley blends giggle-inducing humor with serious discussions of his personal battles...an accurate reflection of the man himself." (Out Magazine Online)

"Oakley uses his unique perspective on YouTube to write a touching and timely book. In “Binge,” already a New York Times bestseller, readers find Oakley at his realest." (Salon Online)

"I devoured [Binge]...I think you’ll find it as hard to put down as I did. You might be shocked at times, but in the end you’ll walk away loving him even more." (Pop Culture Beast)

"With his first book, Binge, Oakley takes apart the smiling, genial celebrity and shares some harrowing stories of poverty, addiction, abuse, and redemption... This book isn’t a tale of regrets but of survival – it’s a book that celebrates misfits and weirdos and imparts a message of hard-won appreciation of life." (A Crowded Bookshelf)

"Of all the books released by YouTube vloggers, Binge might be the most brutally honest yet." (International Business Times)

"[Binge] explores every emotion: you will laugh, then you will cry for sure too, you will gasp and you will be terrified, and then you will have too many emotions and will want to stab the book and throw it out of your window! (But you will not actually do it because by that time the book will be very dear to you.)...very meaningful and a fun voyage." (The Guardian)

About the Author
Michigan native and pop-culture tastemaker Tyler Oakley has amassed more than twenty-one million social media followers through his humorous, no-holds-barred YouTube videos, high-profile interviews, and social rights advocacy. After uploading his first video eight years ago, Oakley took the Internet by storm. With successes ranging from interviews with First Lady Michelle Obama and boy band One Direction, a worldwide live tour, and his chart-topping podcast Psychobabble, Oakley is an Internet icon. He lives in Los Angeles, California, where he uploads weekly videos from his living room.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Binge introduction
GO AHEAD, BINGE.

I’m not saying go out and snort a bunch of cocaine or do anything that’s going to seriously put you or the people around you in danger, obviously.

Binge on the things that bring fulfillment and happiness and satisfaction and make you feel alive. Binge on people who fascinate you and love that wakes you up from monotony. Binge on exploring, both your hometown and the farthest continent. Binge on the time you spend bettering yourself and petting dogs. Binge on picking your grandma’s brain and learning the story of the time she got catfished. Binge on giving, in all senses. Binge on indulging.

We’re told every day from an early age that moderation is key. Count your calories, wait a while before you tell someone you love them, and remember that balance is the path to happiness. While all of those are great in theory, does a lesson taught from someone else’s mistakes resonate just as deeply as the ones you learn yourself? When you binge, you find your own boundaries.

Even if I spend every waking moment attempting to keep my life in balance, I’m going to fuck up. Having already fucked up quite a few times in my life, and having lived to tell the tale, I don’t regret any of it.

I’ve binged plenty of times in my life, sometimes for better, sometimes for worse. Regardless, I indulged. This collection is the result.

Most helpful customer reviews

52 of 55 people found the following review helpful.
the one we've all come to know and love through his videos and his podcasts
By Angela C.
As a casual fan of Tyler, I bought this book to support him and to get the inside scope on all the juicy secrets he didn't reveal in his videos. Despite that, I wasn't expecting a lot.

What a refreshing surprise. What I expected to be a book that would slightly elaborate on stories from his videos ended up becoming an engaging, humorous, and emotional rollercoaster. He delves into subjects many people would never touch with a ten foot pole, and he is relentless in his execution. His voice, the one we've all come to know and love through his videos and his podcasts, is embedded within these words in a way that is so natural and strong that you're sucked into the world of "Tyler Oakley" with each sentence you read. Binge gives us the embarrassing relationship stuff, the hilarious of-course-he-would stories, the heartbreaking times, and the simple but resounding life lessons.

Thanks to this, I've set aside my skepticism because as Tyler continuously emphasizes in Binge, in the end, his goal isn't anything else but to be himself. And while this book won't be required reading for AP English Literature anytime soon, it is the epitome of Tyler's presence, and that in itself makes for a fantastic story.

30 of 31 people found the following review helpful.
I am so proud of him.
By Amazon Customer
I’ve just read the final sentence of my signed copy of Binge, and put down said book for the first time since picking it up. What better time to write a book review than seconds after finishing the book, with tear-tracks still noticeable on your face and a distinct aching in your heart?

Tyler Oakley is someone who means a lot to me, as his shared video experiences have helped me vastly throughout the (roughly) three years I have been watching his content. Thanks to the wonderful online community that he has helped to create, I have made at least four of my closest friends, three of whom I have met in real life, all thanks to him.

Consequently, it was without question that I ordered Binge. I’m not sure exactly what I was expecting, but I know that it wasn’t this. Never before have I felt so close to him, as though I’ve seen hours of his life on my computer screen -and even had the opportunity to hug him at his London Slumber Party tour stop-, he has truly never shared such intimately personal details of his life with me or any subscriber.

It was a worry of mine that I wouldn’t feel the same connection with Tyler that I usually do whilst reading this book. Thankfully, this was far from the case. Throughout, it felt as if he was speaking to me still, as near as he has always been with videos, closer, even. His unique way of phrasing his sentences, creating inside jokes -perhaps unknowingly- and just talking to us like equals has been built upon and yet stayed true to itself throughout Binge. Not a shred of his distinctive personality has been lost, although it has definitely shone through stronger than ever before.

Now, as always, I am truly proud to call myself one of his people. I love Tyler with all of my heart.

-Erin (@fandomasfuck on twitter and tumblr)

81 of 92 people found the following review helpful.
so I thought it would be a good idea to preview the book before he read it ...
By Patti Simmons
I took my 12yo son to see Tyler at his book signing. He's not a HUGE fan, but knows him primarily from some collab videos with other YouTubers. I haven't watched a lot of his stuff myself, so I thought it would be a good idea to preview the book before he read it and I'm glad I did because I was not comfortable having him read the whole thing. We are not a prudish family by any means at all, and I know he could go out there and find all of this info online, but I'm just not quite ready to *personally* hand him a book that teaches him how to use Grindr, have anonymous sex and talks about "getting dick".

That said, I enjoyed the book. I am compromising with my kiddo and letting him read some selected chapters. I feel a little weird doing that because it's not typically my style, but I think there are some valuable lessons and funny stories in the book that he will enjoy. He can read the rest when he cares enough to go snooping for it (I'm not stupid). ;)

See all 1019 customer reviews...

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Sabtu, 03 Mei 2014

[X372.Ebook] Free Ebook Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, by Dana Thomas

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Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, by Dana Thomas

Once luxury was available only to the rarefied and aristocratic world of old money and royalty. It offered a history of tradition, superior quality, and a pampered buying experience. Today, however, luxury is simply a product packaged and sold by multibillion-dollar global corporations focused on growth, visibility, brand awareness, advertising, and, above all, profits. Award-winning journalist Dana Thomas digs deep into the dark side of the luxury industry to uncover all the secrets that Prada, Gucci, and Burberry don?t want us to know. Deluxe is an uncompromising look behind the glossy façade that will enthrall anyone interested in fashion, finance, or culture.

  • Sales Rank: #59766 in Books
  • Brand: Thomas, Dana
  • Published on: 2008-07-29
  • Released on: 2008-07-29
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 8.49" h x .91" w x 5.51" l, .75 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 384 pages

From Publishers Weekly
Newsweek reporter Thomas skillfully narrates European fashion houses' evolution from exclusive ateliers to marketing juggernauts. Telling the story through characters like the French mogul Bernard Arnault, she details how the perfection of old-time manufacturing, still seen in Hermès handbags, has bowed to sweatshops and wild profits on mediocre merchandise. After a brisk history of luxury, Thomas shows why handbags and perfume are as susceptible to globalization and corporate greed as less rarefied industries. She follows the overarching story, parts of which are familiar, from boardrooms to street markets that unload millions in counterfeit goods, dropping irresistible details like a Japanese monk obsessed with Comme des Garçons. But she's no killjoy. If anything, she's fond of the aristocratic past, snarks at "behemoths that churn out perfume like Kraft makes cheese" and is too credulous of fashionistas' towering egos. Despite her grasp of business machinations, her argument that conglomerates have stolen luxury's soul doesn't entirely wash. As her tales of quotidian vs. ultra luxury make clear, the rich and chic can still distinguish themselves, even when Las Vegas hosts the world's ritziest brands. Thomas might have delved deeper into why fashion labels inspire such mania, beyond "selling dreams," but her curiosity is contagious. (Aug.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

From Booklist
*Starred Review* Thomas has been the fashion writer for Newsweek in Paris for 12 years and writes about style for the New York Times Magazine and other well-known publications. She traces the origins of luxury from the mid–nineteenth century, when Louis Vuitton made his first steamer trunks and custom-made clothing was strictly the province of European aristocracy, through the fashion boom of the 1920s, when names such as Dior, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent came into prominence, and buyers with expendable income could afford exquisite clothing and perfume. Sadly, today most of the well-known names are owned by multinational groups, and luxury items have become commodities, where buyers crave name brands for what they represent rather than their inherent quality of manufacture and design. Thomas takes us into the streets of New York, where counterfeit items are sold that look so much like the real thing that it takes an expert to tell them apart, to the Guangzhou region in China, where children make knockoff goods under appalling conditions. She manages to remove the veil from the fashion industry with a blend of history, culture, and investigative journalism. Siegfried, David

Review
The Devil Wears Herms (He Bought It at the Caesars Palace Mall in Las Vegas)
By MICHIKO KAKUTANI
Skip to next paragraph Back in the late 1980s, the Prada backpack made out of black or tobacco-brown parachute fabric trimmed in leather became the it bag for many would-be fashionistas. It was hip, modern, lightweight and at $450 expensive, but not as expensive as the stratospherically priced bags made by Herms and Chanel. According to the fashion reporter Dana Thomas, that Prada backpack was also the emblem of the radical change that luxury was undergoing at the time: the shift from small family businesses of beautifully handcrafted goods to global corporations selling to the middle market a shift from exclusivity to accessibility, from an emphasis on tradition and quality to an emphasis on growth and branding and profits.
With Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, Ms. Thomas who has been the cultural and fashion writer for Newsweek in Paris for 12 years has written a crisp, witty social history thats as entertaining as it is informative. Traveling from French perfume laboratories to Las Vegas shopping malls to assembly-line factories in China, she traces the evolving face of the luxury goods business, from design through marketing to showroom sales.
She gives us some sharply observed profiles of figures like Miuccia Prada, who was a Communist with a doctorate in political science when she took over her familys small luxury goods business in 1978, and the business tycoon Bernard Arnault, who relentlessly built LVMH into a luxury monolith with dozens of brands (including Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Dior)sold around the world.
Ms. Thomas peppers her narrative with lots of amusing asides about everything from how orange became Hermss signature color because it was the only color widely available during World War II to the money-saving benefits of raw-edge cutting, which has been marketed to the public as a cutting-edge, avant-garde innovation.
But her focus remains on how a business that once catered to the wealthy elite has gone mass-market and the effects that democratization has had on the way ordinary people shop today, as conspicuous consumption and wretched excess have spread around the world. Labels, once discreetly stitched into couture clothes, have become logos adorning everything from baseball hats to supersized gold chains. Perfumes, once dreamed up by designers with an idea about a particular scent, are now concocted from briefs written by marketing executives brandishing polls and surveys and sales figures.
With globalization, Paris and New York are no longer exclusive luxury meccas. Ms. Thomas notes that a gigantic 690,000-square-foot luxury mall called Crocus City (featuring 180 boutiques, including Armani, Pucci and Versace) is flourishing outside Moscow, and that a group of high-end boutiques will be part of a luxury complex called Legation Quarter, scheduled to open in Tiananmen Square later this year.
Approximately 40 percent of all Japanese own a Vuitton product today, she says, and one recent poll showed that by 2004 the average American woman was buying more than four handbags a year. With more people visiting Caesars Palaces glitzy Forum Shops each year than Disney World, Las Vegashas made shopping synonymous with gambling and entertainment, even as outlet malls have brought designer clothing and accessories within the reach (and budget) of many suburbanites.
High-profile luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Herms and Cartier were founded in the 18th or 19th centuries by artisans dedicated to creating beautiful, finely made wares for the royal court in France and later, with the fall of the monarchy, for European aristocrats and prominent American families. Luxury remained, writes Ms. Thomas, a domain of the wealthy and the famous until the Youthquake of the 1960s pulled down social barriers and overthrew elitism. It would remain out of style until a new and financially powerful demographic the unmarried female executive emerged in the 1980s.
As both disposable income and credit-card debt soared in industrialized nations, the middle class became the target of luxury vendors, who poured money into provocative advertising campaigns and courted movie stars and celebrities as style icons. In order to maximize profits, many corporations looked for ways to cut corners: they began to use cheaper materials, outsource production to developing nations (while falsely claiming that their goods were made in Western Europe) and replace hand craftsmanship with assembly-line production. Classic goods meant to last for years gave way, increasingly, to trendy items with a short shelf life; cheaper lines (featuring lower-priced items like T-shirts and cosmetic cases) were introduced as well.
Although this volume quotes Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue, saying such changes mean that more people are going to get betterfashion and the more people who can have fashion, the better, the author reaches a more elitist and pessimistic conclusion. The luxury industry has changed the way people dress, she writes. It has realigned our economic class system. It has changed the way we interact with others. It has become part of our social fabric. To achieve this, it has sacrificed its integrity, undermined its products, tarnished its history and hoodwinked its consumers. In order to make luxury accessible, tycoons have stripped away all that has made it special.
Luxury has lost its luster.
"New York Times", 8/21/07
Luxury, and How It Became Common
HARRY HURT III
WANT to buy luxury products like Louis Vuitton handbags? Gucci shoes? Prada dresses? Theres no need to comb the fashion alleys of New York, Paris or Milan in search of the brands boutique stores. Just zip over to the nearest mall, where high-end department stores hawk luggage, footwear, apparel, jewelry and virtually every other designer-label item that ever appeared under the klieg lights.
But be prepared to see scores of fellow shoppers already wearing the exact goods you covet.
Therein lies the cruel commercial irony at the core of Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, by Dana Thomas, a Paris-based culture and fashion writer for Newsweek (Penguin Press, 375 pages, $27.95).
Ms. Thomas documents in entertaining and sometimes heart-wrenching detail how the luxury industry evolved from a proudly diverse array of family-owned houses into a $157 billion-a-year mass market whose products now lack the exclusivity and in many cases the quality craftsmanship that formed the basis for their cachet in the first place.
Along with changing the way we dress, the luxury industry has realigned our economic class system, Ms. Thomas asserts. It has changed the way we interact, she says. It has become part of our social fabric. To achieve this, it has sacrificed its integrity, undermined its products, tarnished its history and hoodwinked its consumers. In order to make luxury accessible, tycoons have stripped away all that has made it special.
At first lip-blush, that might seem like merely an elitist complaint. Ms. Thomas shows, however, that the repercussions of democratizing luxury have had dire effects across the globe, and on almost every socio-economic level.
The corporate quest to reduce operating costs, for example, often leads to the creation of sweatshops. Along the way come an array of related crimes ranging from fraudulent labeling and counterfeiting to embezzlement and even prostitution paid for with luxury goods in lieu of cash.
If the corporatization of luxury is new, the flaunting of wealth through acquisitions is not: It dates at least as far back as the ancient Greeks and Etruscans. The ancestry of modern extravagance traces to the Bourbons and the Bonapartes. (After France earned $15 million selling hundreds of millions of acres to the United States, Napoleons wife, Josephine, spent half of the money on clothes in 10 years, Ms. Thomas reports.)
Ms. Thomas argues that luxury not only indicates our tastes in fashion, it also defines our political, social, and economic standing and our self-worth. In America, the prevailing standards of taste and style were once set by new rich industrialists like the Vanderbilts, Carnegies, Morgans and Rockefellers.
Luxury wasnt simply a product, Ms. Thomas writes. It denoted a history of tradition, superior quality, and often a pampered buying experience.
Luxury was a natural and expected element of upper-class life, like belonging to the right clubs or having the right surname. And it was produced in small quantities often made to order for an extremely limited and truly elite clientele.
Enter the villains of Ms. Thomas book, the 35 leading luxury brands that now control over 60 percent of the global market. The list includes Prada, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Herms and Chanel, all of which have revenue in excess of $1 billion a year. But the Mr. Big of the big luxury is LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton, an $11 billion conglomerate whose labels also include Dior, Fendi and Berluti.
Some of the best-written and most damning passages in Deluxe recount the rise of LVMHs chairman, Bernard Arnault, considered by his critics to be the Machiavelli of luxury industry finance. Ms. Thomas describes how Mr. Arnault forced out the founding Vuitton clan in a vicious battle fueled by accusations of espionage and public smear tactics.
Citing startling

Back in the late 1980s, the Prada backpack - made out of black or tobacco-brown parachute fabric trimmed in leather - became the "it" bag for many would-be fashionistas. It was hip, modern, lightweight and at $450 expensive, but not as expensive as the stratospherically priced bags made by Herms and Chanel. According to the fashion reporter Dana Thomas, that Prada backpack was also "the emblem of the radical change that luxury was undergoing at the time: the shift from small family businesses of beautifully handcrafted goods to global corporations selling to the middle market" - a shift from exclusivity to accessibility, from an emphasis on tradition and quality to an emphasis on growth and branding and profits. With "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, " Ms. Thomas - who has been the cultural and fashion writer for Newsweek in Paris for 12 years - has written a crisp, witty social history that's as entertaining as it is informative. Traveling from French perfume laboratories to Las Vegas shopping malls to assembly-line factories in China, she traces the evolving face of the luxury goods business, from design through marketing to showroom sales. She gives us some sharply observed profiles of figures like Miuccia Prada, who was a Communist with a doctorate in political science when she took over her family's small luxury goods business in 1978, and the business tycoon Bernard Arnault , who relentlessly built LVMH into a luxury monolith with dozens of brands (including Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Dior) sold around theworld. Ms. Thomas peppers her narrative with lots of amusing asides about everything from how orange became Herms's signature color because it was the only color widely available during World War II to the money-saving benefits of raw-edge cutting, which has been marketed to the public as a cutting-edge, avant-garde innovation. But her focus remains on how a business that once catered to the wealthy elite has gone mass-market and the effects that democratization has had on the way ordinary people shop today, as conspicuous consumption and wretched excess have spread around the world. Labels, once discreetly stitched into couture clothes, have become logos adorning everything from baseball hats to supersized gold chains. Perfumes, once dreamed up by designers with an idea about a particular scent, are now concocted from briefs written by marketing executives brandishing polls and surveys and sales figures. With globalization, Paris and New York are no longer exclusive luxury meccas. Ms. Thomas notes that a gigantic 690,000-square-foot luxury mall called Crocus City (featuring 180 boutiques, including Armani, Pucci and Versace) is flourishing outside Moscow, and that a group of high-end boutiques will be part of a luxury complex called Legation Quarter, scheduled to open in Tiananmen Square later this year. "Approximately 40 percent of all Japanese own a Vuitton product" today, she says, and one recent poll showed that by 2004 the average American woman was buying more than four handbags a year. With more people visiting Caesars Palace's glitzy Forum Shops each year than Disney World, Las Vegas has made shoppingsynonymous with gambling and entertainment, even as outlet malls have brought designer clothing and accessories within the reach (and budget) of many suburbanites. High-profile luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Herms and Cartier were founded in the 18th or 19th centuries by artisans dedicated to creating beautiful, finely made wares for the royal court in France and later, with the fall of the monarchy, for European aristocrats and prominent American families. Luxury remained, writes Ms. Thomas, "a domain of the wealthy and the famous" until "the Youthquake of the 1960s" pulled down social barriers and overthrew elitism. It would remain out of style "until a new and financially powerful demographic - the unmarried female executive - emerged in the 1980s." As both disposable income and credit-card debt soared in industrialized nations, the middle class became the target of luxury vendors, who poured money into provocative advertising campaigns and courted movie stars and celebrities as style icons. In order to maximize profits, many corporations looked for ways to cut corners: they began to use cheaper materials, outsource production to developing nations (while falsely claiming that their goods were made in Western Europe) and replace hand craftsmanship with assembly-line production. Classic goods meant to last for years gave way, increasingly, to trendy items with a short shelf life; cheaper lines (featuring lower-priced items like T-shirts and cosmetic cases) were introduced as well. Although this volume quotes Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue, saying such changes mean that "more people are going to get betterfashion" and "the more people who can have fashion, the better," the author reaches a more elitist and pessimistic conclusion. "The luxury industry has changed the way people dress," she writes. "It has realigned our economic class system. It has changed the way we interact with others. It has become part of our social fabric. To achieve this, it has sacrificed its integrity, undermined its products, tarnished its history and hoodwinked its consumers. In order to make luxury 'accessible, ' tycoons have stripped away all that has made it special. "Luxury has lost its luster." --"Sunday New York Times" 8/19/07 Luxury, and How It Became Common HARRY HURT III WANT to buy luxury products like Louis Vuitton handbags? Gucci shoes? Prada dresses? There's no need to comb the fashion alleys of New York, Paris or Milan in search of the brands' boutique stores. Just zip over to the nearest mall, where high-end department stores hawk luggage, footwear, apparel, jewelry and virtually every other designer-label item that ever appeared under the klieg lights. But be prepared to see scores of fellow shoppers already wearing the exact goods you covet. Therein lies the cruel commercial irony at the core of "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster", by Dana Thomas, a Paris-based culture and fashion writer for Newsweek (Penguin Press, 375 pages, $27.95). Ms. Thomas documents in entertaining and sometimes heart-wrenching detail how the luxury industry evolved from a proudly diverse array of family-owned houses into a $157 billion-a-year mass market whose products now lack the exclusivity - and in many cases the quality craftsmanship - that formed the basis for their cachet in the first place. Along with changing the way we dress, the luxury industry "has realigned our economic class system," Ms. Thomas asserts. "It has changed the way we interact," she says. "It has become part of our social fabric. To achieve this, it has sacrificed its integrity, undermined its products, tarnished its history and hoodwinked its consumers. In order to make luxury 'accessible, ' tycoons have stripped away all that has made it special." At first lip-blush, that might seem like merely an elitist complaint. Ms. Thomas shows, however, that the repercussions of "democratizing" luxury have had dire effects across the globe, and on almost every socio-economic level. The corporate quest to reduce operating costs, for example, often leads to the creation of sweatshops. Along the way come an array of related crimes ranging from fraudulent labeling and counterfeiting to embezzlement and even prostitution paid for with luxury goods in lieu of cash. If the corporatization of luxury is new, the flaunting of wealth through acquisitions is not: It dates at least as far back as the ancient Greeks and Etruscans. The ancestry of modern extravagance traces to the Bourbons and the Bonapartes. (After France earned $15 million selling hundreds of millions of acres to the United States, Napoleon's wife, Josephine, spent half of the money on clothes in 10 years, Ms. Thomas reports.) Ms. Thomas argues that luxury not only indicates our tastes in fashion, it also defines our political, social, and economic standing and our self-worth. In America, the prevailing standards of taste and style were once set by new rich industrialists like the Vanderbilts, Carnegies, Morgans and Rockefellers. "Luxury wasn't simply a product," Ms. Thomas writes. "It denoted a history of tradition, superior quality, and often a pampered buying experience. "Luxury was a natural and expected element of upper-class life, like belonging to the right clubs or having the right surname. And it was produced in small quantities - often made to order - for an extremely limited and truly elite clientele." Enter the villains of Ms. Thomas' book, the 35 leading luxury brands that now control over 60 percent of the global market. The list includes Prada, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Herms and Chanel, all of which have revenue in excess of $1 billion a year. But the "Mr. Big" of the big luxury is LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton, an $11 billion conglomerate whose labels also include Dior, Fendi and Berluti. Some of the best-written - and most damning - passages in ""Deluxe"" recount the rise of LVMH's chairman, Bernard Arnault, considered by his critics to be the Machiavelli of luxury industry finance. Ms. Thomas describes how Mr. Arnault forced out the founding Vuitton clan in a vicious battle fueled by accusations of espionage and public

a What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashiona
a"Los Angeles Times"
a A crisp, witty social history thatas as entertaining as it is informative.a
aMichiko Kakutani, "The New York Times"
a Globalization, capitalization, class, and culture . . . A fascinating book.a
aFareed Zakaria, "Newsweek"
a What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashion, exposing the underbelly of the $157-billion luxury industry and the lockstep consumer psychology behind its glamorous veneer.a
a"Los Angeles Times"

What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashion
"Los Angeles Times"
A crisp, witty social history that s as entertaining as it is informative.
Michiko Kakutani, "The New York Times"
Globalization, capitalization, class, and culture . . . A fascinating book.
Fareed Zakaria, "Newsweek"
What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashion, exposing the underbelly of the $157-billion luxury industry and the lockstep consumer psychology behind its glamorous veneer.
"Los Angeles Times"

? What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashion?
?"Los Angeles Times"

? A crisp, witty social history that's as entertaining as it is informative.?
?Michiko Kakutani, "The New York Times"

? Globalization, capitalization, class, and culture . . . A fascinating book.?
?Fareed Zakaria, "Newsweek"

? What Fast Food Nation did for food service, this book does for fashion, exposing the underbelly of the $157-billion luxury industry and the lockstep consumer psychology behind its glamorous veneer.?
?"Los Angeles Times"

Most helpful customer reviews

119 of 122 people found the following review helpful.
If anyone finds out about me...
By Milton Fuentes
at corporate I would get a little slap on the wrist for writing this review since I work for one the brands heavily mentioned in this wonderful book.

I entered the world of luxury goods last year for an Italian brand that even it's "epicenter" store is elusive without the name of the store on Rodeo Drive. What Dana Thomas has written about the luxury brands is eye opening and condemning. From the factories in China, Santee Alley in the Downtown Los Angeles and the country side of France, you get the insiders view on how indeed luxury lost its luster. Once considered lavish and extravagant, we now see what luxury brands have done to diminish the quality and service of these high end stores and at great cost. No one walks into Gucci and buys a $2000 handbag expecting it to be made by an under paid teenager in China only to have the tag changed once it is in the companies possession to "made in Italy" for adding a handle. Small couture brands exist that retain a sense of dignity by continuing the art of exclusivity, style and hand made products that are still created and made where the tag states they're from. Even Hermes, a brand that continues to grow steadily, has retained its heritage and luxe by hand making made to order handbags and saddles.

Aside from the investigative interviews and reports on luxury's current state, you also get history lessons on the birth of luxury from Alexander the Great's wardrobe, how Chanel No 5 came to be and the creation of the "Birkin" bag for Jane Birkin by Hermes. Witty, insightful and damning, you can't help but feel drawn into this book hoping that it never ends. But all good things come to an end and what I was left with was a sense of doubt and a bit of anger. As I stand in floor full of runway dresses, shoes and bags I wonder how much are these really worth? When a client complains in the future about her bag falling apart in a few days and asks, "What are your bags made in China?" in the back of my mind I will think yes it indeed could have been made in China.

140 of 152 people found the following review helpful.
Methodically researched/ Beautifully written
By E. Snead
Full Disclosure: I write about fashion, entertainment and celebrities for a living and have known Dana Thomas for a decade or more. I knew she was working on a book about luxury (yawn) and for the past three years, she was always exhausted, trotting off to China, Milan, Grasse or Lake Como, sometimes popping into my hood in Hollywood, constantly doing research for the book.

But frankly, I'm not a big designer brand buyer and would sooner plunk $400 on a Pottery Barn couch than a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes. So I never imagined how engrossed i would be by this book. In fact, I was shocked.

Dana makes this elitist world come alive by putting luxury in a historical context (Caesar wore only silk togas and the Senate was POed at the expense!) and taking the reader with her on a personal journey behind the scenes and around the world, to find out the sad truth about the decline of the luxury goods industry.

It's utterly fascinating and engrossing. And it's funny! Dana has a wicked snse of humor and pulls no punches in describing the decadent denizens of the "Deluxe" world. Even if you know nothing about fashion, couldn't tell a Gucci bag from a Prada purse, and don't own a single designer knockoff product, this book will fascinate, educate and entertain. Plus any book that can make me put down the last Harry Potter - in the middle! - has to be some kind of good read.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Interesting stories behind some well known brands
By T.V.D.
Enjoyable stroll through the good and the bad of luxury. Overall, it seems like the author lost some direction when writing this book: it starts out somewhat critical of the current trend in luxury industry and then it goes on to say it's actually not so bad and ending with a promise of a bright (if somewhat different) future. Either way, read it for some insight into how high end brands do their thing.

See all 134 customer reviews...

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Jumat, 02 Mei 2014

[T750.Ebook] Get Free Ebook Firebrand of Liberty: The Story of Two Black Regiments That Changed the Course of the Civil War, by Stephen V. Ash

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Firebrand of Liberty: The Story of Two Black Regiments That Changed the Course of the Civil War, by Stephen V. Ash

A nearly forgotten Civil War episode is restored to history in this masterful account.

In March 1863, nine hundred black Union soldiers, led by white officers, invaded Florida and seized the town of Jacksonville. They were among the first African American troops in the Northern army, and their expedition into enemy territory was like no other in the Civil War. It was intended as an assault on slavery by which thousands would be freed. At the center of the story is prominent abolitionist Colonel Thomas Wentworth Higginson, who led one of the regiments. After waging battle for three weeks, Higginson and his men were mysteriously ordered to withdraw, their mission a seeming failure. Yet their successes in resisting the Confederates and collaborating with white Union forces persuaded President Abraham Lincoln to begin full-scale recruitment of black troops, a momentous decision that helped turned the tide of the war. Using long-neglected primary sources, historian Stephen V. Ash’s stirring narrative re-creates this event with insight, vivid characterizations, and a keen sense of drama.

  • Sales Rank: #1797346 in Books
  • Published on: 2008-07-17
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.50" h x 1.00" w x 6.50" l, 1.26 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 304 pages

From Publishers Weekly
The titular firebrand in this revealing history is not an individual but a curious and ambitious project: the establishment, in March 1863, of a permanent Union outpost in Florida to serve as a haven for fugitive slaves and to help ignite the destruction of Southern slavery from within. In readable prose and relying exclusively on primary sources, historian Ash (When the Yankees Came) tells the little-known but crucial story of how 900 newly freed slaves, under the leadership of white abolitionist officers, captured Jacksonville. They fought alongside white Union troops and liberated slaves until their mission was abruptly aborted by their commanding officer, Gen. David Hunter, one of the dimmest stars in the Union Army firmament. Ash makes a strong case that the successes of the two black regiments changed the course of war by convincing President Lincoln to authorize the full-scale enlistment of African-Americans. By the end of the war, some 200,000 black troops had served in the Union Army. Without them, Ash contends, the Union might very well have failed to conquer the Confederacy. (July)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

From Booklist
The award-winning film Glory publicized the valor of the Fifty-fourth Massachusetts and their assault on Fort Wagner. However, the Civil War’s first black regiments to see combat were the First and Second South Carolina. Ash, a professor of history, has told their story in an exciting and inspiring book. Unlike the men in the Fifty-fourth, the black soldiers in these regiments were almost exclusively liberated slaves. In March 1863, they were sent to Confederate-controlled Florida, where they quickly captured Jacksonville. The long-range goal was to create a liberated zone where runaway slaves from all over the South would flee, further draining the manpower resources of the South. The regiments were led by Colonel Thomas Wentworth Higginson, a loud, brash white abolitionist who had advocated violent resistance to slavery before the war. Although the military effects of the campaign were negligible, Ash asserts that the courage of these black troops encouraged Lincoln to recruit black regiments on a much wider scale. Ash effectively uses primary sources to provide an intense chronicle of the battlefield while illuminating an obscure but gallant episode of the Civil War. --Jay Freeman

About the Author
Stephen V. Ash is a professor of history at the University of Tennessee. He is the author of several books on the Civil War, including A Year in the South: Four Lives in 1865. He lives in Knoxville, Tennessee.

Most helpful customer reviews

5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
My Young Barbarians
By glory be
Firebrand of Liberty is a little known story of the 1st South Carolina colored regiment which was commanded by Col. Thomas Wentworth Higginson. Stephen Ash tells a riviting story about former slaves who, under the teaching of Higginson, become Union soldiars as brave and disclipined as any white troops.

They were the first black regiment to fight for the Union and the first regiment to fight alongside white soldiers. But this book not only tells the story of their fighting history but it also tells about their lives and feelings. Higginson took every opportunity to get to know his men and he enjoyed listening to their stories. They also develp a mutual respect and affection that is touching.

One feels it is too bad that they lost their designation as the 1st South Carolina and became the US 33rd. They, of course, were overshadowed by the 54th Massachuttes who became known as the first black regiment. But thanks to this book, they are in their proper place.

4 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
Good Read
By Peter J. Reilly
I enjoyed this book and would recommend it at a good place to start on the topic. Since this is history I suppose I don't have to worry about a plot spoiler, but there was a little bit of suspense that ended in disappoinment me to me. The author indicates that the capture of Jacksonville and the related raids had much greater military significance than had been thought. Basically his case is that the moderate success of the mission allowed the decision for full scale employment of black soldiers to go ahead. The evidence while pretty good is mostly circumstantial.

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Brilliant!
By Emma W
Stephen V. Ash has written another winner. Absolutely fantastic book about the Sea Islands of South Carolina during the Civil War. Superb scholarship, and reads like a novel to boot. Would be a great Christmas gift for anyone interested in US history, black history, the Civil War, and a great story.

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